Doctors in several African countries are reporting new cancer cases tied to decades of skin-lightening cream use, raising concerns about weak regulation and growing market demand.
Kat Lay reports for The Guardian.
In short:
- Hydroquinone-based lighteners and potent steroids, widely used despite bans in countries like South Africa and Ghana, are linked to irreversible skin damage and emerging cancer cases.
- A recent review documents more than 55 cancers in women from countries including Mali, Senegal, and Togo, with dermatologists calling for urgent regulatory action.
- Social media and entrenched colorism drive demand, fueling a market expected to grow from $10.7 billion to $18.1 billion by 2033.
Key quote:
“If we are getting self-induced skin cancer, then that’s a red flag and worrying. We have to do something about it.”
— Ncoza Dlova, head of dermatology at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
Why this matters:
Skin lightening is a booming global industry, and many products contain chemicals that strip melanin — the body’s natural defense against UV radiation. Hydroquinone and corticosteroids, common ingredients in these creams, can trigger long-term damage ranging from fungal infections to aggressive cancers. While several African nations have banned these compounds, weak enforcement leaves them widely available through informal markets. The demand is fueled by deep-rooted colorism and amplified by social media filters that favor lighter complexions. The health consequences extend beyond cancer: Chronic skin conditions, hormonal disruption, and even use on infants have been reported. As the market expands, the health burden falls hardest on women in regions with limited access to safe dermatological care.
Related EHN coverage: LISTEN: The dangers of skin lightening products














